Ieper

Founded in the 10th century as a stop in the Paris-Brugge trade route because it was a major textile producing city, Ieper’s modern day claim to fame is due to WWI. Thousands of soldiers died in the fields surrounding this city and lie at rest in the many cemeteries spreading throughout this area.

Ieper actually has two fabulous pieces of Gothic architecture. First, the Stadhuis and St. Maartenskathedraal.

Ieper's Stadhuis.



Buddy in front of Ieper's Stadhuis.



St. Maartenskathedraal, Ieper, Belgium.











East of town, Menenpoort (or Menin Gate) is a moving war memorial built along the route WWI Allied solders took towards the front line. Troops on the “Menin Road” endured brutal German artillery attacks. After WWI, the British built this vast arch in memory of the 300,000 soldiers who perished in this corridor. The names of some 55,000 soldiers who died before August 17th, 1917 and whose bodies are missing are inscribed in the walls of the arch. Since 1928, every night at 8 pm, traffic is stopped at the gate as members of the local fire brigade sound the Last Post on silver bugles, gifts of the British Legion. The practice was interrupted during WWII, but was resumed the night Polish troops liberated the town on September 6, 1944.

Menin Gate in Ieper. The arch is filled with their names and regiment, as well as the year of death.





Poppy wreaths commemorate the fallen.

Flanders Fields

Our trip to Belgium was not “all things medieval”, as we did spend a bit of time touring the WWI battlefields in western Belgium, also known as Flanders Fields. Otherwise known as a pastoral part of country, the crimson poppies that dot the landscape in the autumn are a reminder of the thousands of people who lost their lives in this area during “The Great War to End All Wars”. Almost half a million Belgian, British, British Commonwealth (as well as French and American) soldiers are buried here, either in marked or unmarked graves.

Our first stop was to an interesting museum called Dodengang (Death Walk), which has preserved a network of trenches where Belgian troops faced and held off their German adversaries for four years.





The trenches here are 400 meters long, dug into the dyke of Ijzer, the forward fighting trench, as well as the rear support trench (not seen in this photo). The trenches were not dug into the ground but rather were built at night by heaping up sandbags, wood, earth, and miscellaneous materials.

After the four year siege, the Belgian soldiers from the various units who served here renamed the trench area le Bayou de la Mort (the Trench of Death), a name that it richly deserved. One of the reasons was due to the use of one of the most appalling weapons used on the Ijzer front. Shells filled with mustard gas were fired by the Germans on to the Belgian positions. The sticky contents evaporated slowly and anyone accidentally touching the product suffered terrible burns, in addition to the damage caused to the eyes and lungs. In order to deal with the danger, every soldier serving in the Trench of Death was issued two gas masks.

Heiling Bloedprocessie

Each year in Brugge, more than 2000 locals take part in the colourful, medieval-style Heiling Bloedprocessie (Procession of the Holy Blood) which dates back to the 13th century and is held annually on Ascension Day (this year, May 25th). Fortunately, the rain held off long enough for the 2-hour procession, replete with 2000 costumed procession participants, live animals, bands, and floats, to weave through the streets of Brugge.

First, the legend, as I certainly needed some background to understand what I was seeing. According to tradition, Derrick of Alsace, Count of Flanders, brought the relic of Holy Blood with him after the second crusade, having supposedly received it in the Holy Land around 1150 AD. Arriving in Brugge on April 7th, 1150, Count Derrick and his wife, Sybilla, presented the Holy Relic to the Basilica Chapel on the Brugge's Burg, where it has remained to this day.

So exactly what is the Holy Relic? Supposedly, this relic is Christ’s coagulated blood, which is sealed in a small oblong rock-crystal flask (11th -12th century). This flask is in turn concealed in a glass cylinder that has been decorated with golden crowns (see last photo). It is written, that after the descent from the Cross, whilst washing Christ’s body, Joseph of Arimathea, took the blood and preserved it. It remained in Jerusalem until 1150 when it was given as a reward for heroism during the Crusades to Count Derrick.

From 1303, each year a procession of major spectacle occurs throughout the streets of Brugge. The procession is essentially divided into 4 sections:

* Bible scenes from the Old Testament
* Bible scenes from the New Testament
* Scenes showing the historical part where Derrick of Alsace brings the relic to Brugge from Jerusalem
* The shrine with the relic, along with members of the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood, as well as clerical and civic authorities.

Regardless of your beliefs about religious relics and their authenticity, it is an important tradition in Brugge. So much so, that tickets are purchased well in advance from a "Ticketmaster - like" outlet. The Budman and I had perfect seats in the market square, sitting atop risers and watching the procession.

First, the Basilica of the Holy Blood where the relic is normally maintained. Entrance to the 12th century chapel that houses the Holy Blood Relic.



Interior of the Basilica of the Holy Blood.





For your viewing pleasure, the procession. First, the opening of the Holy Blood Procession, Brugge.



Scenes from the Old Testament: Adam and Eve.



Cain and Abel.



Joseph being sold into slavery.





Pharaoh and plague of Egypt.



Scenes from the New Testament: The Birth of Christ.



Entering Jerusalem on Palm Sunday.





Pilate asks: Jesus or Barabbas?



Jesus carrying the cross to Golgotha.



The Resurrection Tomb.



Scene from the Brugge section of the Holy Blood Procession: the relic being brought into Brugge after the Crusades by Derrick and Sybilla.



The procession of the Holy Relic itself.

Evening in Brugge

The travel guide was right! Don’t leave your hotel in Brugge at night without your camera.

The charming city of Brugge

First stop in the Flemish 4-day travelogue was Brugge. Historically, Brugge was a thriving center of commerce, trade, and art, as well as a political center of the Hanseatic League in the 14th through the mid 16th centuries. Although the Spanish conquered Brugge in 1528 and the town fell into poverty, the architecture, art, and overall beauty of the town was established for us to enjoy today.

The real draw to Brugge is the fact that this town is one of several canal cities in Belgium. It seemed there was a photo op around every corner. This town was beyond charming…quaint…picturesque.













The canals of Brugge; the Belfort in the far background.



The canals of Brugge, Belgium; the Church of our Lady, Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, in the distance.



Holly in front of one of the few remaining windmills left in Brugge.



Minnewater, or the Lake of Love, Brugge.





Brugge markt, with guild houses in the background.



Brugge markt with the gothic post office and the provincial government house.



Brugge City marktplace. Monument to medieval heros, Jan Breydel and Pieter De Connick, who led the commoners to their short-lived victory over France.



Brugge Stadhuis.



Brugge Belfort.



As a sidenote, we had also travelled to Brugge to observe the famed “Holy Blood Procession”. “What is that all about you ask?” Sorry, you will have to wait until tomorrow for that one.