Something is rotten in the state of Denmark

Helsingor (Elsinore in English) is a busy port town north of Copenhagen. Perhaps most famous for Kronborg Slot, known as Elsinore Castle in Shakespeare’s Hamlet, this castle’s primary purpose was not really a castle or royal residence but rather as a magnificent tollhouse where tolls and taxes were exacted from ships passing through the narrow port of Oresund.

Originally built in the 1420’s by the Danish king, Erik of Pomerania, the tollhouse and small fortress was built using much of the shipping taxes collected. Expanded and restored by Frederik II between 1574 and 1585, the tollhouse was rebuilt to form much of what is the present day castle. Future kings embellished the castle’s interior, but sadly, the castle fell into disrepair after a fire in 1629, the war with the Swedish in 1658 in which it was turned into barracks for soldiers, and fewer and fewer visits to the castle by Danish royalty. Today, it serves as a museum.

Now, back to Will…Shakespeare, that it. There is no evidence that W.S. ever visited Helsingor, but apparently the news of the magnificent tollhouse and castle spread throughout Europe in the early 1500’s. Maybe it struck Will as a fitting setting for his tragedy. Although the play was fiction, he did include two real-life Danish nobles in the storyline, Rosenkrantz and Gyldenstierne, both of whom visited the English court in the 1590’s.

Today, it is often simply referred to as Hamlet’s Castle and is considered the most widely known castle in all of Scandinavia.

Kronborg, Slot, Helsingor.



















Much of the castle’s interior has been restored to include furniture, paintings, tapestries, marble fireplaces, and art from the Renaissance period in Denmark. Photos include the king’s and queen’s chambers and the great hall and its tapestries.

Interior of Kronborg Slot.















Chapel at Kronborg Slot.









The town of Helsingor.

Amalienborg Palace and the Marble Church

Home of Queen Margrethe II, Amalienborg Slot is the principal residence of Her Majesty and the royal family of Denmark. Most of the palace is not open to the public, but there is a very interesting museum in one wing of the palace that has restored several public rooms of previous Danish monarchs for the public's viewing. We also timed our visit so that we could see a bit of the pomp of the changing of the guard. Not like the Brits, but still interesting.

Amalienborg Slot, Copenhagen.













The Marble Church, Marmokirken, also known as Frederikskirken, is just a block west of Amalienborg Palace. Recently renovated, (and scrubbed free of soot), it is an impressive sight…inside and out. Interesting footnote: The church's dome was inspired by the dome at St. Peter's Church in Vatican City.

Marmorkirken, Copenhagen.



















Interior of Marmorkirken.

Trek for the night shot

It is as much a part of touring museums, eating the local cuisine, or seeing the sights as anything for us...taking one evening and scoping out THE night shot in any location we visit. This can take 15 minutes or can last for hours...sometimes it involves bracing the cold, rain, and wind....

In many ways, this is becoming easier; in some ways, it is becoming harder. Sure, the tripod purchase in Salzburg last August improved our night shot capability immensely - put a check mark into the "easier" column. On the flip side, the purchase of the new camera at Christmas has tested out photography skills (how do we use the blasted thing at night?) - put a check mark in the more challenging" column.

Still, we did capture a few Copenhagen night shots worth keepin'.

Copenhagen...by night.





Kongens Nytorv by night.



Copenhagen's "older" opera house by night.



Nyhavn alit at night.



The "new" opera house in Copenhagen - our vote for the winning night shot in Copenhagen.

Christianshavn

This community, established in the 17th century by Christian IV, is really an enclave that has been absorbed into Copenhagen. Originally modelled after the canals of Holland, today it is a series of shops and restaurants that make for a nice leisurely afternoon. It’s a mixture of old and new; still visible today are the ramparts of the old city, as well as remnants from its “café-culture” past of the 60’s.

The day we visited was really the best day weather wise, as noted by the photos….things turned decidedly wintry after our stroll through the area. So much for the Easter weekend.

Budman in Christianshavn.



Copenhagen - view of the new opera house from Christianshavn.



Canals of Christianshavn.









Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour’s Church), a 17th century church with close ties to the Danish monarchy, apparently has fabulous views from its dome. Of course, it never fails that at least one major church is under renovation in any city we visit. True to form. our streak is still alive, so entry into the dome and interior was not allowed.

Nyhavn

OK, I am finally getting around to posting Copenhagen photos. The first day was simply glorious, albeit a bit breezy but sunny. Our explorations took us to Nyhavn to enjoy the canals and sidewalk cafes, as well as other areas of Copenhagen.

Canals of Nyhavn.









Buddy at an outdoor cafe along the canals of Nyhavn.



Holly in Kongens Nytorv Square.



Copenhagen Borsen.



Scenes of Copenhagen.



Budman waiting for a Danish hot dog.

Barcelona

Barcelona appears to be a great city...that is the part of it I saw in the 36 hours I was there. Highlights include dinner and breakfast with friends from Texas who happened to be passing through at the same time we were, a walk down the Ramblas and through the Gothic Quarter, and the purchase of a Starbucks city mug (for the collection).

Yep, deadlines at work unexpectantly called me home...but I'll get back there one day. It appears that this time Barcelona was...a bit of a bust.

We have baby birds, flying birds, talking birds, and crashing birds

In the words of Rodgers and Hammerstein, "Spring is busting out all over". That includes the trees, flowers, blue skys, warm sunshine, and yes...baby birds.

We first noticed it about 3 mornings ago when at 3:45 am, we were awoken to the sound of something akin to a dog chewing on a squeaky toy. OK, I am not a morning person, so this seemed logical to me at the time. In retrospect, it seems kinda ridiculous to think that....

Later that morning, when awokened again, we figured out it was birds. Talkative baby birds at that, who apparently rest up all day and then proceed to have a chirp-fest in the wee, small hours of the morning.

Well, they have been chatty every morning this week. Upon closer inspection, we realize that they have built a nest somewhere close to our back terrace with a direct microphone feed into the open window in the bedroom. It appears now that momma bird is quite vocal as well as it chatting back with baby bird.

And then, there was the crash into the bathroom window this evening that sounded like perhaps momma bird had moved "to the big nest in the sky". Later chirping revealed all is well...

We're in holiday time

In case you were wondering, "where is Hachie Gal"? Two simple answers: Travel and travel. Travel for work has resulted in both Budman and Hachie Gal being out of pocket, and out of Deutschland. Travel for pleasure because...yes...it is the German holiday season.

In the span of 10 weeks, there are 5 public holidays in Germany. With a little creative vacation planning, one can maximize the weekend trips so as to get Barcelona, Bath, and Copenhagan all factored into the month of April alone.

So, that is the story...please bear with the irregular postings but the photos (when they get posted) should be fab...assuming we can master the new camera...UGH!

Smorrebrod

It's traditional Danish food...an open-faced sandwich that can range from very simple fare to much more sophisticated food creations. Yea...smorrebrod.

Taking a cue from Texas friends who always sample local food stuffs while travelling, we had to partake of the local cuisine. Yea...a smorrebrod. Usually, it's a slice of bread (i.e. rye) topped with either roast beef, tiny shrimps, roast pork, chicken, fish, or even veggies, and always topped off by some garnish. Although smorrebrod is usually served in cafes or restaurants at lunch, you can pretty much find it wherever, whenever.

Smorrebrod meal #1: Budman had tomato and mozzarella cheese brod; Hachie Gal had a chicken salad concoction.

Smorrebrod meal #2: We both had a a shrimp and asparagus combo with a nice dill sauce.

And yes, before we totally went "smorrebrod crazy", we actually did have a hot dog from a street vendor...twice.... Believe it or not, Copenghagen is known for hot dogs and there are several variations to choose from.

Salt in my coffee

While in Copenhagen, I confirmed what we all know to already be true. Salt in a cappucino is just...well...not good! I mistakenly thought that the small round bowl of loose crystals was in fact sugar, not salt. When was the last time you saw "loose salt" (i.e. not in a salt shaker) sitting on a table? My point exactly.

The best part (or most humiliating) was that I displayed this dash of bravado in front of several tables of other patrons in a lovely canal side cafe in Nyhaven. Yep..."she had Yankee written all over her".

All you can do is laugh....

There is nothing like a Dane

Note: title is at its cleverest when sung to the South Pacific show tune by a similar name....

Copenhagen for Easter. It was a grand trip to a great city, but Easter bonnets were soggy and windblown as Old Man Winter decided he was not yet quite finished with winter. Coats, gloves, and hats were definitely in order...photos and stories to follow.

Four days in Denmark and lots of reading about the nation, its history, and culture quickly reminded me that this nation has produced quite a few impressive people. Taking the Vikings out of the mix for the moment (and certainly an impressive lot they were), Danish poets, artists, writers, architects, philosophers, and their achievements abound. A few for the record books:

* Karen Blixen
* Hans Christian Andersen
* Georg Jensen
* Peter Hoeg
* Soren Kierkegaard
* Absalom (yea, that Absalom!)
* Arne Jacobsen
* Carl Jacobsen (OK, a beer baron can certainly make the list after all the philanthropic activities he was involved in)
* Theodor Dreyer
* Lars von Trier

Surely you know most of these?

Knut has his "own" people

Knut fever continues. Knut apparently has just signed with a German PR firm who will be handled his future press, publicity, and personal appearances. Knut has even scored a Vanity Fair cover - quite a feat when you realize that the German version of the magazine just launched a few months ago.

"Why does a polar bear cub need a PR firm?", you ask. Just ask Marlar the baby elephant. "Who's he?". My point exactly.