Miscellaneous Miscellani

I occasionally realize that there are things I have adjusted to “not knowing how to do” that normally I would not give a second thought to until it comes time to needing “to know how to do” this or that.

As examples….

ATM receipts: I still can’t figure out how to get a receipt from the ATM machine. When I obtain cash using my US bank account, an English language option appears, thus allowing me to select the options I need, including obtaining a receipt for my transaction. Yet, when I use my German ATM card, German is the only language option. Thankfully, I can select the right button to get the cash, as this is, after all, the main objective. The streak is alive at 5 months and counting, and I still have never gotten a receipt.

Pizza home delivery: Should be simple to order a pizza by telephone, but no can do. Buddy, however, has mastered enough basic German to get a pizza ordered and delivered 80% of the time. Just when we think we have this mastered, and we get a bit “cocky”, is when the pizza gremlins throw us a curve ball and we get the one pizza worker who can’t understand our German…To his/her credit, I understand why….

Dry cleaners: “Can I get starch in those shirts – Three dry cleaners later, we finally have figured out that indeed shirts can be ordered with starch (or the rough equivalent). After the fiasco of the lost dress shirts, we switched to a cleaners where one of the staff (weekend day mornings only) can speak a little English. I tried looking on the translation website and the language books for the phrase, but it does not appear that “can I get those shirts with starch?”, is really on the “need to know” phraseology list.

Customs forms: Another good use for French, as I can at least fill out the customs at the post office because the forms are in dual language…whew! Dodged that issue.

Moral of the story: Language school can’t come quick enough; bring on the German classes!

Driving on the Autobahn

Goofy me, I thought that “the Autobahn” was a specific road, like the “LBJ Freeway “ or “I-35”, rather than the network of German highways that is actually is. You learn something new everyday.

And yes, it’s fast, but let me answer a commonly asked question. There are speed limits of varying speeds throughout many stretches of the Autobahn. So, the Autobahn does not really live up to the “drive as fast as you want to drive” reputation that it has in the US. Sure, there are several drivers that have left us behind on the Autobahn in a blaze of glory, but that myth is a bit over-rated in my opinion.

There are a few other observations I have regarding this well-known and well-publicized road system:

1. German countryside is quite picturesque but you really can’t see much of the scenery from the roads of the Autobahn. This is a result of multiple tree plantings along the sides of the highways as well fence lines or panels that have been added to cut down on road noise I suspect. It is only when you get to a hill or the top of a bridge that you see this amazing view, and then it is definitely all worth it. Now, when you get off the Autobahn network and drive on other highways, the scenery is fabulous.

2. One thing I love about the German highways is that there are no ugly billboard signs, mobile home parks, abandoned buildings or gas-stations, or other unsightly monstrosities glaring back at you from the German countryside. You realize what a disservice we have done in the US to our environment when you live other places…

3. There is not a gas station at every exit, so be sure not to let your gas tank dip too low.

4. And yes, Germans drive on the right side of the road (I get that one all the time, too).

5. A recent roadtrip also clued me in to the fact that there are not many highway lights. At night, it is quite dark and it wasn’t until a late night trip home that we realized this. Add fog to the mix, along with dark roads and lots of trees, and it was something right out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.

6. Yes, we stay in the right lane as much as possible (smile)….

The “real” football

Besides a few key food items, like Mexican food, Rotel cheese dip, and fried catfish, art-films (in English) at the Angelica and Inwood Village, all the Law & Order franchise series, and of course, family and friends, the other thing I miss about living in the US is football. When I say football, I suppose I need to clear: American-style football. And not just football, but Texas football. It is a unique aberration of that sport fan that manifests itself this time of year in Texas, whether it is a fan at the high school, collegiate, or professional level.

As I conducted my daily review of other notable blogs, one of my fellow bloggers (thanks, Amber) had created a rather cool tribute to her team of choice. As noted to the right, the thought did not originate with me. Since imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, I'll beg her forgiveness for blatantly copying her concept. Thus, Hachie Gal will track her favorite football teams this fall, and their trials and tribulations on the gridiron. Check out the right hand side of the blog to see what I mean…

Well, I am indeed a “homer” (KTCK “The Ticket” lingo is still alive and well in my vocabulary, and I can even listen to the station over the internet). I continue to faithfully follow my teams, and cheer them on through the ups and downs of their seasons. Recently, there have been alot more downs than ups. In the case of Baylor, you must be a true fan if you proudly admit that you cheer for the team season after season, as they haven’t had a good season in years. Point in case: read today on the BU website that 17 players on the BU squad missed practice due to strep throat infections. Not a good way to kick-off the season (if you'll forgive the football metaphor).

Even if we had TV access (which we are still working on), I am sure our football viewing options would be minimal. Certainly, I would not be able to watch my favs on a regular basis but thank heavens for the internet where some of the games can be broadcast live (not the Cowboys, if you can believe that! Thanks, Jerry.).

Interesting note: There is the NFL Europe football league in Europe. As you can expect, a lot of US and Canadian football players play in this league. Many of the teams are actually based in Germany: Berlin Thunder, Amsterdam Admirals (based in the Netherlands), Cologne Centurions, Hamburg Sea Devils, Frankfurt Galaxy, and Rhein Fire. The Rhein Fire is Dusseldorf’s team, actually playing their five home games in the city of Dusseldorf. Unfortunately, they had a lackluster season in 2005, tying for last place with a 3-7 record. NFL Europe’s season runs from April through June of each year so we’ll have to wait a few more months before we can enjoy local football.

Unfortunately, not too much hoopla is made about NFL Europe or the Rhein Fire in Düsseldorf as the season came and went without Buddy and me even knowing it! Interesting side note: The Rhein Fire’s team colors are maroon and gold….think “Washington Redskins” and you’ve quite the correct mental image. This die-hard Cowboy fan may actually go into convulsions if I have to don maroon and gold clothing for a game. Some habits are just hard to break….

Road trips

Let me continue with this driving theme….

We are starting to do roadtrips in Germany. There is so much to see that is within a 2-hour drive, we ask ourselves “why not?” and “why have we waited so long?” After hearing the travel tales of friends who have lived here for 4 years, and spending some car time with my German travel books during our last roadtrip, we realized "so much to see, so little time”.

We really have the German Tourist Board to either thank or blame. They’ve done a masterful marketing job of “creating” interest for many of these areas in Germany. They’ve identified several sections of German roads, small villages, and key sights that are worthy of touring. Not only has the German Tourist Board encouraged day-trippers and weekend travelers such as Buddy and I to join in the fun, entire vacation tours and packages have been created around these themes. So much so, that in the summertime, tourist hordes descend on these areas like bees to honey. Catchy names have even been assigned to create a mental image of the things you can see and do: the Romantic Road, the Fairy Tale Road, the Castle Road, the Alpine Road, the Wine Road…you get the picture.

As summer draws to a close, families get back into the routine of school, and those “Americans" go home (I say that with a smile on my face), Buddy and I now turn our attention to seeing some of these sights ourselves. Pictures, blog postings, and postcards to follow.

Obtaining a German driver’s license

We had been told that a German driver’s license (DL) would be required for driving in Germany. We knew that, we were prepared for that in theory, and we recognized that some research would be involved, possibly even a bit of time and money required. How difficult could it be? A bit more than you might think….

Since we only have the one car, and I will not be driving the company car, the need for a German DL did not apply to me. Buddy, on the other hand, would need one. You see, our US driver’s license(s) would be valid for up to 6 months but after that, we needed a German DL. This being Germany, we’ve learned that there is always a detailed process and at least one form involved in situations like this. This was no different: a myriad of rules applied in order to obtain a German DL, and much of that is driven (no pun intended) by the country/state that issued your original DL. We figured that the US DL could be converted quite easily to a German DL…we figured wrong.

If your license is issued by an EU country, you don’t even need to exchange it for a German one. For some non-EU countries, you can simply exchange your license, without the need for a written test, driving exam, etc. Some of the countries that fall into this group are South Africa, Canada, S. Korea, and many others, as well as selected US states (only of which 10 fall into that group). For many other countries, as well as about 35 of the US states, the applicant will need to do the following:

1. Take a written test that covers rules of the road and traffic signs.

2. Take a driving test that demonstrates you are a competent driver.

3. These written and driving tests are only administered by driving schools; some schools have simplified courses for experienced drivers. Either way, you are looking at completing a driving course that can range from 200 – 1000 euros. OK, so driving and written exams, time and money for school….

4. Upon completion of tests and school, apply at the local police station, bringing your passport, 2 photos, residence permit, and application for DL, an old driver’s license, and proof of tests, eye exam, and driving school, if applicable.

“That sounds like quite a hassle”, we say. “Which group do Texas DL holders fall into?” One guess….The last group. Don’t ask us why. We have no answer, nor have we been able to locate one. It is what it is.

As Buddy began to ponder the time and money required to get his German DL, we stumbled across a note in one booklet that said S. Korean DL holders could just exchange their Korean DLs for German ones. As luck would have it, Buddy had applied for and received a S. Korean DL, obtaining it by simply showing up at the local Korean police station and applying for it. No drivers test…no written test….well, there was that color blind test he had to take but we found a work-around for that. The best news is that S. Korean DLs are valid for 10 years and Buddy still had the license with him.

So….after getting the Korean license translated into German (I bore you with that detail, but it was accomplished with minimal effort and expense), and making application, he is now the proud holder of a German DL…he is officially legal.

A lovely weekend in southern Germany

As some of the more veteran blog readers will remember, Buddy and I traveled to Heidelberg in late May to attend a Baylor alumni event. Not knowing a soul in Germany and curious if anyone would really attend, we made the trek via train. In all, about 30 people showed up for a very nice BU Diadeloso event in Germany. As if visiting Heidelberg was not reason enough to go, we had hoped we might meet some nice Baylor grads living in Germany. We were not disappointed!

Fate was on our side that day, as we met a wonderful couple, David and Cindy, who are working at one of the military bases in southern Germany. Throughout the summer, we continued to correspond and this weekend, we went to their home to visit and do a little sightseeing. Could they have been any nicer? Not only being Baylor grads, they are warm and interesting people (native Texan/native Southerner.) whose hometown is Waco. The weekend was filled with great stories of living abroad, wonderful travel tips and anecdotes, and a lot of good food. They were wonderful and gracious hosts and it was the perfect weekend in many respects.

Interestingly enough, the area they live in is simply “chocked full” of things to see and do. Two of the highlights were a trip to Burg Eltz and Trier. Burg Eltz (Burg = castle for you non German speakers; Eltz = family name...thus, Castle Eltz) is the sight of one of the most amazing medieval castles in Germany today.

Surprisingly, this amazing structure was never destroyed in any wars (either the Eltz family was quite diplomatic or knew how to pick the winning side) and is still owned by the Eltz family. The castle was built down in a valley, rather than being built on the highest point, hilltop, or plateau, which seemed to be the going theory on castle building at that time. The castle is set in the most picturesque spot, albeit a long walk down into the valley. The good news is that capitalism does appear to be alive and well in Germany, as some guy realized that by charging 1.50 euros per person, he could charge people for van rides back up to the top of the hill. Trust me, it was the best 1.50 euro I spent all weekend.

Another interesting place was the town of Trier, which is also the sister city of Ft. Worth, Texas. Go figure! Trier has the largest collection of Roman ruins outside of Italy, including an amazing city gate that is still standing (built about the time of Christ), and a basilica built under Constantine’s reign and direction. We only scratched the surface on this visit, so Buddy and I will definitely be heading back to Trier for a future weekend jaunt.

Most of all, it was a wonderful weekend filled with beautiful scenery, lots of history, great conversation, good food, and of course, new friends. And yes, the good food, does include a trip to the US military base for Taco Bell for lunch on Sunday…it is the simple things you miss sometimes.

Uh oh...

Uh oh is right. We heard back from the landlords on our request to install a satellite dish on the outside of our apartment. Apparently, they have no issue with the concept but they feel fairly confident it would not be approved by the building's homeowner association, which is the next step in the process. Inside sources tell us that one of the neighbors refuses to ever approve anything. It was not an outright statement of "It definitely won't be approved", but our landlord's feeling is that this will most likely be akin to "fighting city hall". So, as we approach the end of month 5 in Germany, and still have no access to English language TV programs, we are not sure of our next move in the pursuit of this elusive thing called "TV".

We have not yet bought the German TV...which is a good thing. If we were to install satellite, we would have to make this acquisition since Germans use a thing called PAL, and US TVs won't work with this technology. I think it's been a smart move to wait on this purchase....

Before you say, "Five months without TV? So what have you been watching?" let me assure you that we are watching TV...in our own way. We have 3 TVs with us in Germany, albeit US ones, and they play DVDs just fine. Having created a rather extensive library of DVDs and VHS of US television programs and movies, we have been able to keep ourselves entertained. And thanks to my aunt, she is keeping us current on a few favorite shows from the US...mainly the Law and Order franchise. News? We read the paper or access CNN on the internet. Sports? A bit more problematic, but we are somewhat accustomed to not getting anything but soccer, cricket, and Taiwanese baseball from our time living in Taiwan so we are already used to that...

So as we ponder next steps, we are trying to determine what makes the most sense…go ahead and submit the request to the homeowner group or install ISH digital cable (even the name is not terribly appetizing) which provides maybe 6-10 English language stations and supplement this with our own DVDs and VHS tapes? Buddy is even wondering if there is a way to adhere the satellite to a free standing item, such as a heavy table and locate that on our balcony. This way we could still have our satellite but bypass the approval process…

World Youth Day

Not being Catholic, I was not aware of what World Youth Day was or that it even existed. Yet, thousands of Catholic youth began arriving in Germany over this past weekend and Monday for this event of spiritual renewal for young people. The event will culminate with Pope Benedict XVI flying into Köln (about 30 km from Düsseldorf) on Thursday evening for a Sunday mass where 120,000 attendees are expected.

For Germans, what makes this rather special is that the site of the event was selected long before the new pope, who is German, was elected. Like most events, there is not universal support for this youth festival, although I suspect it has more to do with church doctrine, politics, and hype than anything specifically related to the youth day event. Estimates project that 800,000 people from 193 countries are expected to attend the event sometime during the week.

All I know is that I am seeing hundreds of youth pitching their tents along the Rhine across the street from my apartment. With Düsseldorf being so close to Köln, it is not surprising that surrounding cities would play host to these youth as well. Earlier this week on my nightly jog, I saw a tent city being constructed along the river banks with everything from sleeping tents, to meeting tents, to a church sanctuary, restaurants, and restrooms. Reminded me a bit of Waxahachie youth camp minus the camp buildings and with a lot more people.

Last night I heard music coming from the general direction of the river…strains of “I Love Rock and Roll” and The Doobie Brothers hit “Listen to the Music”….not exactly the music I heard at youth camp but apparently the World's Youth appreciate good old-fashioned rock-n-roll.

It’s time for German school

I can usually become accustomed to not speaking a foreign language while living in a host country, at least early on before language classes kick in. Truthfully though, some days are better than others. I get to the point where I often unintentionally block out surrounding conversations because I can’t understand the words being spoken. I'm in my own little world. It is only when I hear English (or most recently Chinese) that I am jarred back to reality and realize I can actually converse with that person.

Not speaking the local language can sometimes be an easier adjustment; sometimes it is more challenging. Yet, what is the alternative? In the words of Nike, "just do it". Perhaps “easier adjustment” is not the best choice of words. I can become “functional”. You’d think that with this being the third country I have lived in, apart from the US, I’d be at best, somewhat immune to these linguistic challenges and at worst, possess some sophisticated coping strategies.

Still, a few recent occurrences have quickly reminded me that it is probably time to learn German. Point in case:

· I receive emails, paystubs, employee insurance materials, and employee communication from my employer, EDS Germany, all in German. Thanks to my EDS colleagues in Germany and Switzerland (you know who you are), they usually inform me of what I “need to know” versus what is “nice to know”. A gal can only beg for translation services for so long. And the online translation website has a 150 word limit.

· A morning “encounter” with a German postal worker who said nothing more to me than the following words “no English” (in English, and not altogether politely) suggests that perhaps some German postal vocabulary should be first on the list of topics in future language classes. Either that, or I need some remedial etiquette classes.

· A recent trip to Paris proved that even my 5 years of French language class in high school and college allows me to more effectively get around in France than I am currently able to do in German in Düsseldorf. While my French vocabulary and pronunciation is a bit rusty, Buddy and I got along quite well with the French speaking natives. At least I like to think so. I remembered even commenting to Buddy “this living overseas is not so tough” during our French adventure last week if for no other reason than I could communicate.

My senses tell me that it’s time. Everyday, my eyes gloss over words I cannot read and my ears hear conversations that are jibberish. From an intellectual perspective, my head tells me that it would be practical, interesting, and mind expanding to learn German while my soul tells me it would be downright liberating. Even a rudimentary knowledge of German would allow me to feel a little less isolated, a little more self-sufficient, and perhaps even endear me to my German speaking colleagues and neighbors. Why have I waited this long? (I have some theories on that, but the short answer is that only so much change and "new" things can be heaped onto a person at one time).

Armed with a new resolution to learn German, and a mindset to embrace the language, I am currently in the midst of locating a language school. One candidate rises to the top: evening classes 2 days a week, a reasonable price, and a class setting of no more than 5-6 students. Buddy and I could even take classes together. Class begins on September 6th…

Wacky summer weather

Apart from the 10 days or so of warm/hot weather we’ve experienced this summer, I have spent most of my time this summer in sweats, jeans, and long sleeves shirts. That’s right! With officially only 3 weeks left of summer in Germany, we believe we are closing in on virtually little or no more hot weather. Even though much of the summer weather has been gray, cool, and rainy, you’ll get no complaints here. Good news for people without A/Cs. According to the Germans, this has been another unusually cool and wet summer, which they have not liked (being sun worshippers, it has wreaked havoc with the summer tans).

Every few weeks, we are informed by colleagues that a possible warming trend is headed this way, but most of the time, it never really materializes. Just yesterday Buddy was informed it might reach 80 degrees this weekend. Not too bad….I just wonder what is in store for us this winter….this Texas gal is a southerner not accustomed to harsh winters…

Washing and drying bed linens

Having been out of town for much of the past three weeks, I discovered that our laundry had really accumulated upon our return from Paris. Ah, welcome home. Still, how much laundry can two people really generate? Well, not that much, but remember that for me one load of laundry can take 3 hours to wash/dry, that the unit is a combo unit so I can’t multi-task by washing a load and drying a different load at the same time, and that the maximum washing load is about 10 pounds/maximum drying load is about 6 pounds. If you have been reading the blog, then you already know this.

No…today my tale moves to a different aspect of laundry…washing and drying the bedlinens. This should not even be a blog topic. However, I have learned to take nothing for granted, and this is one of those topics.

First, a little background: As you may not recall, Buddy and I were required to purchase a bed frame and mattress is Germany, as we did not take our own bed with us to Taiwan (so there was nothing to ship to Germany). Simply put, European beds are a different size, so the sheets we have from the US can not fit a German mattress. OK, that required the purchase of a new bed frame, mattress, and bedlinens (I’ll get to the issue of the mattress another time, but they have no box springs). Right now, we have the bed the equivalent size of something a little larger than a double bed but not as large as a queen size. So, to wash the linens, I have to break the sheets into two piles because the size of the washer/dryer can’t accommodate all the bedlinens in one load.

“Why don’t you just put them all in at one time anyway?” Several reasons but the two main ones are: (1) if the machine is too overloaded, it won’t work, and (2) the items in the machine will not wash and dry properly (i.e. damp linens, or worse yet, wet towels and sheets). So, you break it down into two loads. Time required: minimum 6 hours.

Again, you say “That should not be an issue.” Can’t you just put in a load of clothes, bedlinens, or towels, start the machine, go run some errands or hit a movie, and come back to take your dry items out of the washer/dryer? No, you can’t. Rationale: If you leave the items in even 5 minutes after the drying cycle finishes, they come out one wrinkled mess. I have tried different drying strategies, different washing and drying temperatures, reviewed the English operating manual that Buddy pulled off the internet, but we can’t seem to figure that out. For most items, you better get them out of the dryer quickly, and folded or hung on hangars ASAP.

So…now on to the bedlinens. Everywhere I look, bedlinens are made of 100% cotton. I love a good Egyptian cotton sheet, with a 300+ thread count. No cotton/polyester for me! They are scratchy, not soft, and are usually in some garish color or pattern (orange being a favorite of Germans I have noticed). With soft sheets, you pay the price! Upon removal from the dryer, I have never seen a more wrinkled set of linens in my life. I mean, they are beyond wrinkled. We have even tried to leave the linens a bit damp but they are still wrinkled. So, I am now pressing my sheets….and when I say sheets, I really mean a fitted sheet and a duvet cover because there is no such thing as a flat sheet in Continental Europe.

Welcome to my world….

I see dead people…that is, I see dead people’s graves

OK, allow me one more Paris story. And yes, you are probably wondering how a Paris travel anecdote ties into today’s blog title. Well, believe it or not, a big tourist attraction in Paris is to visit La Pere Lachaise, a cemetery in Paris (thanks Mike and Matt for suggesting this – very interesting). I know, I can hear the wheels spinning in your heads, “Why would you do that?”

For one, the tombstones are works of art in themselves: very ornate in general, lots of wrought iron, stained glass, architectural elements, and garden statues, and even small buildings are constructed as tributes to the lives of the people buried here. It is quite extraordinary…now I know where some of the antique garden statues we see in US antique shops are probably derived from. The closest thing I can compare it to are some of the cemeteries I have seen in Louisiana (obviously, it is the French connection there) so that visual might help my US pals.

Apart from that, it is the sheer notoriety of the people buried here that is the big draw. Because this cemetery is so vast, there are tourist maps of the cemetery that show where all the notable people are buried. Before I go too much further, let me just say that this place is HUGE! We spent 2 to 2 1/5 hours here and we still only scratched the surface. However, let me give you a flavor of some of the people buried here:

* Oscar Wilde
* Sarah Bernhardt
* Marcel Proust
* Yves Montand and Simone Signoret
* Eugene Delacroix
* Honore de Balzac
* Maria Callas
* Isadora Duncan
* Frederic Chopin
* Jim Morrison (of The Doors fame)
* Heloise et Abelard
* Camille Pissaro
* Allan Kardec
* Charlie Chaplin
* Gertrude Stein
* Edith Piaf
* Moliere

It is simply a “who’s who” list of famous writers, painters, sculptors, dancers, singers, entertainers, philosophers, as well as I am sure many others…I wish I could say we saw all of the names listed above, but alas, we did not….a return trip is obviously in order.

Sidenote: the dude selling tourist maps at the entrance of the cemetery seemed a bit suspect, but if you go there, you must buy a map. Trust me, you will be lost without it. Each person purchasing a map invoked this guy’s query to find out where you were from, what you do for a living, etc. When he asked Buddy this question, my security-minded husband responds “Germany” but clearly he is speaking with an American accent (he is rather cautious these days about revealing too much info as Americans are not the most popular people right now). To which this guys says in a soft whisper, “Are you with the CIA?”

Yea, right….

What about passport control and security on trains?

Air travel has indoctrinated me to a litany of security measures that must be followed on airlines these days:

• arriving 2 hours early for a flight
• ensuring baggage is unlocked and under “your control” at all times
• no packing of items from a list of 40+ banned products, including bombs, guns, and knives (check…got it…leave those at home)
• no packing of hairspray and nail clippers in carry-on luggage
• queuing in long lines to go through security
• presenting the passport and boarding pass at immigration and security (multiple times)
• taking off all shoes, belts, jackets, jewelry, etc. to pass through the security area (beep beep – go back through or be “wanded”)
• removing the PC from the briefcase
• yada, yada, yada

I have this drill down now, and can anticipate the next sequence of events as if I was constructing a process flow chart. If this, then that….

Yes, it is important. Yes, it is for our safety. And yes, terrorism has caused airports and airlines to resort to this level of checking. Still….what a hassle….

Which is why I am consistently so ill prepared for the low degree of difficulty related to security and passport measures on European trains. Take our recent trip to Paris:

• No passport control: On neither the trips to/from Paris/Dusseldorf, and having passed through 3 countries in the process, was I ever required to show my passport. Not at the train station, nor on the train to the train conductor. Given the recent security issues on trains, I guess I would have expected somebody...somewhere...sometime... to request to see my passport. Doesn’t somebody want to know who I am? Better yet, I want to know who you are!
• No luggage check: I know that practically speaking this would be a huge hassle. Yet, the recent bombs on Madrid trains have shown that train travel is vulnerable. All aboard…including those suitcases.
• No security check: We just waltz onto the train…a mere 10 minutes before departure. C’est facile! Nobody checks to see what I am carrying, what is strapped to my body, what is in my luggage…

I like train travel…I like the relative ease of train travel. Which is why I am enjoying this mode of transportation. It just occurred to me, though, might it be too easy? Something tells me it is only a matter of time before that changes, too.

France shuts down in August

I had been forewarned by Jorja K. that August in France is an entirely different beast. Thus, I should not have been surprised by the amount of businesses closed for the holidays during “cette mois”. In all actuality, our recent trip to Paris and central France was not really impacted as there was far more to see and do than we could ever realistically accomplish in 5 days.

By way of background and for those of you around the globe not familiar with the generous vacation laws in EU countries, most EU citizens have at least 6 weeks of annual leave, if not more. With that said, France literally shuts down in August; many hotels, shops, art galleries, restaurants, etc. take a 4 week extended vacation, usually from the end of July to the 25th to 31st of August.

This still surprises me. Point: If the summer time is THE tourist season, it stands to reason that these businesses would want to be open in order to capitalize on the tourist crush. Guess that is the blatant capitalist coming out in me. Counterpoint: Maybe that is why I saw so many tourists…hmmm….

Fortunately, Paris is chocked full of sightseeing opportunities, and none of the major sights are usually affected. Having been to Paris before, and experienced the traditional tourist must-sees (i.e. Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Tuilleries, Place de Concorde, Champs Elysee, Place Vendome, etc.), I was hoping to hunker down in one or two Parisian neighborhoods and experience the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of such places as Montmarte and St. Germain des Pres. Quick translation: crawl around in the antique shops, art galleries, one-of-a-kind clothing and book stores that are located on virtually every street and putz to my heart’s content. More times than not, though, a pleasant sign (in French) greeted us at the front door of many shops and eateries politely informing us of the business’ August closure. Even the touristy book and print sellers along the Seine were apparently on hiatus.

Example: One the restaurant recommendations we decided to act upon, Le Grand Colbert, was planning on closing the very next day for about a month. As we began to order, the waiter politely informed us that about half of the menu items were not available that evening in anticipation of being closed for the next 30 days. Hmmm…no chicken, salmon, steak, no veal….

Lest you get the impression that we did not have a fabulous time in Paris, let me be sure to set the record straight! It was a wonderful five days spent visiting with family, as well as exploring parts of France I had never seen before. Yes, multiple shopping bags were in evidence, lovely meals were had (Le Petit Cour – thanks, Mike and Matt), and even a few antique shops separated me from some of my Euros.

Just remember, though: forewarned is forearmed. Paris in August marches to the beat of slightly slower drummer.

Fountainebleau and Vaux le Vicomte

Being ever the organized traveler, we had already decided we wanted to tour the fabulous chateaux of Fountainebleau and Vaux le Vicomte. Words and pictures cannot describe how beautiful, opulent, and grand these chateaux are, so I will not even try. Interestingly enough, Fountainebleau was the hunting lodge for many French kings, including Francois I, Henri IV, and Napolean,



while Vaux le Vicomte was a chateau common in the time of the French Bourgeoisie.



Because travel to these locations, located outside of Paris, involved trains, train schedules, buses, taxis, etc. , we consulted Fodor's travel book, our hotel concierge, and the WWW. After a few misses enroute to Fountainebleau (the internet site provided us with bus lines that do not take one to Fountainebleau, taxis do not appear to even exist in Fountainebleau, a notable sidetour of the less than finer sites of the city was provided via the local bus lines), we eventually arrived at the chateau. The return trip back to the train station was a little less challenging although we kept stopping at local tourist offices for assistance...of which every 2 out 3 were not open. Yes, everything shuts down in France in August.



Part Deux of this daytrip then included a train stop in Melun, home of Vaux le Vicomte. Again, Fodor's and our internet notes failed us, because none of the buses appeared to have this tourist site on their route. The tourist "chateau bus" also appeared to only run on the weekends...never fear...taxi to the rescue, which we were able to find "one". Although travel tips suggested that this was only a 2 km walk, we would still have been walking through the wheat fields of Melun to find this place. It was worth it, however, including a rather laborious audio guide that provided me with more historical context about French owners, the plot and intrique during 1600's in France, and of course, the chateau, than I could ever have wanted to know.