It's the little things

I am constantly reminded that it is the little things that one takes for granted when living abroad. For example, today I embarked on a two-day business trip to London, which will be followed by two more days of business in Warsaw, Poland. I had forgotten the ease and simplicity of being able to coherently converse in a country’s native language (too many years in Korea, Taiwan, and now Germany). It is usually very broken German (or most recently Chinese) that I am trying to use when talking with locals. Which is not to say one should not attempt to speak the language of the host country, but it does not happen over night. And there are plenty of Germans who speak English quite proficiently and with great precision. It is just that my German is really bad and my vocabulary is non-existent. I was pleasantly jarred into reality when I stepped on to the British Airways flight this morning and the flight attendant greeted me in English. It just caught me a bit off guard because I do not often hear it spoken these days as a matter of course.

I took that observation to the next level when I arrived at Heathrow Airport and I was accosted by all the advertisements written in English, TVs and radios blaring in English, and millions of voices speaking in English. It was absolute sensory overload.

Add to that the simple ease of being able to direct a taxi driver to a destination without resorting to very poor German or worse yet, having to call a friend or colleague on my mobile phone to perform translation services. This morning there was a spring in my step as I realized I could navigate the entire process totally on my own without any translation issues or mishaps.

At lunch, I was reminded that I could actually use words and phrases to request my order rather than simply pointing at the foodstuff I desired and holding up one or two fingers to denote quantity.

It may not sound like much to you, but for a brief period this week I actually feel a bit more self-reliant and less mentally taxed in doing daily routine or mundane tasks. The next time you are at the dry cleaners and need to address a dry cleaning issue on a piece of clothing you own, just remember me….that conversation alone can wreak havoc with my day…

Kirmes am Rhein

Where can one experience the following things, if so inclined:

* experience the thrill of the Alpina Bahn or Das Omen?
* eat corn-on-the cob, salt dill pickles, bratwurst, pork steaks, cotton candy, and chocolate dipped strawberries to one’s heart content?
* catch a view of Düsseldorf from high up in the air?
* partake of dozens of beirgartens?

At the annual Kirmes am Rhein of course, otherwise known to Buddy and I as the annual Düsseldorf summer carnival. Well, it is not exactly the State Fair of Texas (but again, what really is?) but it is THE place that for the next 10 days Düsseldorfers will be flocking to in order to enjoy the summer, be a big kid, ride the midway rides, and just eat, drink, and be merry.

Let me explain. Apparently, this is a big-time event in the summer lives of Düsseldorfers. Every summer, for about 10 days, a traveling fair basically sets up an entire fair ground with the typical things seen at a fair. Yes, there is a roller coaster (known as the Alpina Bahn), a ferris wheel, bumper cars, kiddie rides galore, a log ride (known as Wild Wasser), scrambler, fun-house…the list goes on and on. The names of the rides may be German but the concepts are universal. What is a bit fun are the local “tweaks” that the Germans have put on it.



For example, today, the various “oompah bands” from around Düsseldorf dressed in their German traditional costumes, played their German music, and marched through the streets of the fair into the largest biergarten on the fairgrounds. Very festive, although the woolen jackets, knee socks, and hats were looking a bit warm to me. Actually, the words "itchy" and "hot" came to mind.

The annual fair started yesterday, and Buddy and I were invited to join some other expats for a Saturday afternoon of fair enjoyment. For Buddy and I, we must confess it was the food that was the best part, as we had not had sweet corn on the cob dripping with butter for months (the Germans are not big fans of corn-on-the-cob – we don’t know why.). The piece de resistance was the huge strawberries that were dipped in chocolate (choose your poison: white, milk, or dark chocolate). Usually there are 5-6 chocolate dipped strawberries on a stick…pure heaven (see shots below).





After resting up after our first outing on Saturday afternoon, Buddy and I decided to check out the fair later that evening…lots more people, and a really nice summer evening to enjoy the festivities. The best part is that the carnival is literally located on the Rhein, about a 5-minute walk from our apartment. Of course, our neighborhood of Oberkassel has restricted driving access for the next 10 days so everytime we leave, we must make sure our special parking pass is prominently displayed in the car window, otherwise, there will be no admittance back into our neighborhood. Traffic is a bit of a challenge, but the proximity of the fair is perfect for heading down on foot from our place. So much so that we headed back down on Saturday evening for round 2 of "fair food". Not to be outdone, we went back today (Sunday afternoon) for a few spins on the ferris wheel (what a view of the Rhein), and yes…more food…including the chocolate dipped strawberries.



The good news is that we have another week of “fair fun” (and “fair food”, for that matter) before the fair packs up and heads to the next German city. The bad news is that I head out on a business trip to London and Warsaw on Monday and will miss the rest of the fair…as well as any future food runs. Fortunately for Buddy, he will be here and since it is only a 5 minute walk….well, you know the rest of the story…



PS – wonder how many more sticks of chocolate covered strawberries will be eaten by the Budman this week?

Diadeloso - Part 2

OK, I finally obtained pictures of the Baylor Diadeloso event (in case you are wondering what I am referring to, scroll down to the links section at the very bottom of the right hand side of the blog page, look for the “Passport Archives” section, clink on the link entitled “May 2005”, and find the May 31st posting entitled “Diadeloso”.

I always have my camera with me…it is what I do, who I am. So, why did I not have a photo of the BU alums? Well, my camera was sitting over on the picnic table when we took this (and other) photos. Don’t ask me why. When we were finally all lined for the photo, I simply thought that the one photo would be taken and did want to trouble the photographer with a personal request of a shot with my camera . I was sure wrong; instead, the photographer had 10+ cameras which to snap photos. Every one and their dog wanted a photo but it was now too late for me to run and add my camera to the group. So, I have patiently been waiting for Baylor to post the group shots….they finally arrived.

It was a sunny and hot day, but the weather did not dampen the spirits of the group giving the sign of the bear claw….



P.S. Buddy and I are on the back row.

Observations of London

Yes, Buddy had a daytrip to London this last Tuesday. I wasn’t thrilled, given the recent events in that great city . Thankfully, it was a quick trip – fly in, fly out…all in one day. I was rather interested, however, to hear his observations about the mood of London just a few days following the terrorist bomb blasts.

Interestingly enough, he said that the Brits appear to have that “just get on with it” attitude. The main thing he observed (and was also told by the taxi drivers) is that traffic in London had been horrific over the first couple of days following the bombs. Apparently, many Londoners initially were taking taxis, rather than using the tube or buses. I suppose I can understand that… Apparently, even that activity has now subsided, just a week since the blasts.

My EDS boss and colleagues working in London chime in with similar remarks. My boss told me yesterday that Londoners are essentially “thumbing their noses at the terrorists” by returning to their regular routines, starting to use mass transportation, and just living their lives as they normally would. Apparently, the mayor of London has been taking the tube everywhere to show his confidence in using mass transport (lots of photos showing this in the European media), including going to and from work as well as to meetings.

I am headed to London next Monday for two days of business and then on to Warsaw, so I will let you know my impressions as well.

Zons

After seeing Cochem on Saturday, we were still feeling the need to check out more of the German countryside, so we headed to the sleepy town of Zons on Sunday afternoon. Just about 45 minutes from Düsseldorf, this very quaint village had something we had seen from the highway on a previous daytrip: a gigantic windmill (Is that redundant? I suppose all windmills are mostly large ones). Upon our arrival in Zons, we headed directly to this feature attraction.



I must confess, I have never seen a windmill in person, let alone a medieval one that I could actually walk inside. Those things are amazing! I also realized that this tourist site was a bit “off the beaten path” because as we proceeded to enter the windmill, we noticed three local ladies sitting around a card table with a metal cashbox. (Brought back memories of sitting on Gingerbread Trail house porches in Waxahachie selling tour tickets). For the bargain basement price of 0.60 euros, or about 85 cents, we had our tickets in hand and began the climb to the top of the windmill. What a deal!

The windmill actually has five levels:

* the basement floor, or entry into the windmill
* floor 1 - area where grain is sacked

* floor 2 – area where grain is crushed by these huge mortar and pestle things that actually extend to the top of the windmill.

* floor 3 – area where the gears operating the grinding arms are located

* floor 4 – area where the huge crank wheel is located. This wheel is turned by the windmill arms on the outside of the windmill and gives the mill its power.

To move from one floor to the next, we were required to climb narrow, steep ladders (see photo with Buddy for a look at the ladders). As we reached the top floor, as if on cue, the wind picked up the outside windmill arms and began to rotate them. Of course, these arms no longer operated the gears inside the mill, but it was still quite fascinating to see the arms whirling by (each floor had a little window that you could look out).

This charming village also has a fabulous church (in which we entered and listened to a bit of an organ recital), an old fortress wall that still surrounds the entire city, and several old lookout towers…here is a view from the top of the windmill.

Reichsberg Castle

After a 15 minute trek up the hill, we arrived at the Reichsburg Castle. As previously mentioned, the castle was destroyed by the French and rebuilt in 1689 using the original plans from c.1027 construction. The castle has had several owners throughout its history, including the Third Reich, however, today it is owned by the city of Cochem. One can certainly understand how the castle was protected as it is surrounded by the Mosel river on 2 sides and sits atop a huge hill in which one can see for miles.

Let’s join Buddy on a tour of the castle:



As we proceed upstairs, we will notice that the furnishings are from the late 1800s, rather than the medieval period.



First on our tour, is the banquet room. Throughout the castle, there are ornate wood carvings on fireplaces, window frames, doorways, as well as ceilings and ceiling moldings.



Directly off of the dining room is the ladies parlor. This is where the women would retire to talk, do needlework, and stay warm, (note the large fireplace covered in Delft blue tiles). Stain glass was prominently used throughout the castle, as well as ornate decorative ceiling painting.





The hunting room, is the area where the hunting trophies were proudly displayed as well as ale (in large quantities) was drunk. Sorry, the photo is a little dark….



The most magnificent room in the castle is the grand hall which is actually 3 large areas: a couple of dining areas, as well as a desk/work area at the far room. Our tour group numbered approximately 25 people, and this room literally swallowed us up.







We exited the castle through the trophy room. While quite interesting because it had several medieval suits of armor, the room was so small that it was impossible to get a good shot. After a brief view from the balcony (see Monday’s posting), we exited the rear of the castle, stopping briefly by the courtyard and water well.

Cochem

A busy weekend meant a quiet blogger….

After seeing the only OV film in English we had not yet seen on Friday night (Batman Begins – remember, beggars can’t be choosers), Buddy and I set out bright and early for a daytrip to Cochem. Actually, bright and early was the plan, but we made a detour to Aachen (opposite direction of Cochem) for some carpet purchases... Yes, we were successful, but that is another story.

We noticed enroute to Cochem that Europeans apparently love to camp. Everywhere along the Autobahn we saw campers, camper trailers, RVs, and minivans with camping gear strapped to the tops of cars. It was not just the Germans either. I saw any number of license plates from France, Belgium, and the Netherlands with similar camping gear. It was as if the mother ship was calling them home…glad someone enjoys camping because it is not this gal!

We arrived in Cochem about 2:30 pm, with this view of the Reichsburg Castle greeting us. What a sight, indeed! Being a sucker for any castle, let alone a medieval one, we immediately began the trek to the top of the hill (yes, Terry, we walked it). Built originally in 1027, the castle was rebuilt according to its original plans after Louis XIV’s army destroyed it in 1689.



Upon arrival at the castle, we took a great tour of the grounds, fortress, and castle interior. These photos are from the castle balcony and magnificently show the lovely Mosel River and valley. With a good subject, even a mediocre photographer can look good!





The Mosel River area is known as “wine-country”, particularly for German Riesling wines. As a matter of fact, you can see grape vines all throughout the area, even along the sides of the mountain leading up to the castle itself.



After a leisurely stroll through the town, we settled upon a charming outdoor café for a “delish” dinner of spinach stuffed chicken breast, potato croquettes, and salad. Yum…

Taking the Waters

Well, as my blog mini-series on Aachen concludes, a description of the trip would not be complete without a brief comment on the “other” big reason people have visited Aachen.

Throughout its history, people have come to Aachen “to take the waters”, either by bathing in the warm thermal waters, or drinking its mineral water. During Roman occupation in the 1st and 2nd centuries, Roman baths were established here; during the latter part of the 1800s and early 1900s, Aachen became known as a spa town as wealthy aristocrats flocked to Aachen spas for its healing powers.

Today, most of the spas are located outside the city of Aachen, but tourists still travel to these spas for a little R&R. As for Buddy and I, we did not partake of the spa action this time, however, we did visit the site of the old Roman baths (no longer there). A fountain has been built to commemorate the site as a reminder of the importance of water to the city of Aachen and its development. As warm spring water fuels this fountain, we drank a bit of the water (yep, that is indeed mineral water). We knew we were in the general vicinity of the warm springs before we even arrived, as the sulphuric smell (or, as we say, the smell of rotten eggs) greeted us before we even had the fountain in our sights.



Throughout the city, over 60 fountains of some shape or form have been erected as a testament to this part of the city’s history. As it was, we only saw about 5 or so during our brief trip, and they were all works of art in and of themselves. Here is a sample of a few (I have enlarged the photos so you can see them better).

This fountain features bronze marionettes that represent some aspect of Aachen history.



This fountain shows an Aachen peasant who is stealing chickens, and made the mistake of stealing the crow. The peasant is whirling around to try to quiet the crow.



A classical approach to fountain design.



The "Charlemagne" fountain...

Rathaus and Town Square

This 14th century rathaus (town hall) was built on the original site of Charlemagne’s palace. The front façade of the building is adorned with the statues of over 50 German rulers, 31 of which were crowned in Aachen.



The building looks out onto the square and on this particular Sunday, was abuzz with activity. In the center of the square, a replica status of Charlemagne sits atop a foundation with the original statue located on the second floor of the Rathaus.



Our observations: The building is indeed impressive from the exterior, but the interior was a bit disappointing. While the interior walls and ceilings were quite dramatic and well restored/persevered, the rathaus apparently is used for Aachen city council meetings and other civic events. Unfortunately, everywhere you looked there was ugly 1970s office furniture or “irrelevant” exhibits that did not make a lot of sense….the price of admission was validated if for no other reason than Buddy “had a chat” with the original statue of Charlemagne. Sadly, Charlemagne was tucked way off in the corner; had we not had our guidebook with us, would never have known this was the original statue that used to be displayed on the town square. OK…townspeople of Aachen, you need to do a little “revamping of your tourist sites”.



Interesting sidenote: As we started to leave the town square, we were shocked to see an antique/carpet store that was open on a Sunday. What gives? Well, apparently the store was owned by a non-German who understands that tourists like to buy on Sundays just as much as any other day. Now, how he was able to legally be open, we have not quite figured out, but we’ll go back as he had some cool rugs for sale. Cultures collided when this pleasant Tehran-born, Iranian store owner began to lecture (perhaps diatribe is more accurate) these two Americans on the shortcomings of the German government when it came to promoting industry and commerce. Ah...some things are the same the world over...

Aachener Printen (the tale of Aachen continues)

After departing Charlemagne’s chapel, we headed in the general vicinity of the Aachen town square. It was already well past lunchtime and both Buddy and I were ready for a snack. The day was a glorious one for sure….about 70 degrees, a light breeze was blowing, and a warm sun was beating down on us. After selecting an outside table at quaint little café for lunch and coffee, a string quartet proceeded to set up in the square and began to play for the diners, tourists, etc.

As we finished our meal, Buddy remembered reading about the local Aachener Printen, or gingerbread. Having been well trained by Joe Grubbs that one should always try the local foodstuffs of a given area, we shared a piece of Gingerbread for dessert.

As it turns out, most bakeries in Aachen offer “variations on the gingerbread dessert theme”. According to the sales clerk (who sold us not one but three loaves of gingerbread), the gingerbread can be stored up to 3 months in nothing more than a plastic bag. Should it become a little hard, simply place the gingerbread in a tin with a little cup of water and store overnight. The humidity from the water will make the gingerbread soft again.



Of course, when all else fails, simply dunk it in your coffee.

Charlemagne's Palatine Chapel

Charlemagne selected Aachen as the site for his vast Frankish empire and built the “octagon” (or the core) of his Imperial Cathedral in this area. Although the majority of the palace is not in existence today, this amazing chapel still stands. Not only was Charlemagne crowned as the Holy Roman Emperor in 800 AD within these chapel walls, but all the Holy Roman Emperors from 936 to 1531 were also crowned here as well. Pretty heady stuff :).

The original cathedral included the octagon (see below), but subsequent rulers added the spires and other parts of the cathedral. The cathedral is a mixture of architectural styles, including Gothic, Carolingian, and Baroque.

Although the treasury holds some of the greatest ecclesiastical treasures north of the Alps, unfortunately, the museum’s closure on Sunday will require a return visit. The cathedral itself contains not only the front altar table, covered in gold sheets (c. 1020), but also the Shrine of Charlemagne. Emperor Charlemagne was canonized as a saint in 1165 and shortly after that (early 13th century), a golden shrine was made to keep his bones in. It is on display towards the back of the picture below.

The ambo, or pulpit, is also made from gold-plated copper and inlaid with precious stones and ivories (c. 1014).

The copper candelabra, a gift from Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa, hangs above the main congregational area.

Charlemagne’s throne is also available for viewing but an appointment must be made at the Treasury in advance (again, another reason to go back). Below, a photo from the back of the church. Buddy is seated in the lower left had corner and appears to be taking it all in.

Happy 4th of July!

I’d like to say that alternative arrangements for celebrating the US 4th of July are in place for these Yanks living in Germany. Unfortunately, things will be a bit quiet this Independence Day. I am sure that if we were close to a US military base in Germany (as we were in Seoul), we could attend a July 4th event there. No such luck in Düsseldorf; our options are rather limited.

Trying to be "a glass half-full rather than a glass half-empty" kind of gal, I did brainstorm a few things we can do to get into the independence day spirit of things:

• Wear red, white, and blue garb today…easier for me to do working from the home office.
• Put on a John Philips Sousa CD and crank up the CD player when Stars and Stripes comes on.
• Cook up a good old-fashioned “4th of July” style dinner. Normally, that would include hot dogs, but we are a little “burned out” on the sausage these days. Instead, Buddy has cooked up a brisket and we’ll have all the fixins’ tonight.
• A day off from work is not in the cards, but cutting out of work a little early sure is.
• Put out our one and only July 4th decoration, courtesy of Becky K. Unfortunately, the US flags and bunting failed to make it into the packing this time.
• Watch Yankee Doodle Dandy on DVD tonight…the songs of Irving Berlin – can it get much better than that?
• Although we are not always in agreement with the things going on in the US, be thankful for our country, our freedoms, and the blessings we do have as Americans.

Parades, sparklers and fireworks, and get-togethers with friends and family will have to wait until another year. If you read this blog, please post a comment and let me know how you spent you holiday weekend – let me live vicariously through you.

And for all our Canadian friends….Happy Belated Canada Day (7/1)!

Aachen

We had been told that a daytrip to Aachen was not only an easy one, but a trip well worth its weight in gold, speaking from a travel perspective. Not that the city of Aachen is on the top 10 list of German cities to visit, nor on the must-see itinerary of travelers destined to tour Germany. As we learned, however, there are many reasons to visit Aachen, especially if one is a lover of history.

Geographically speaking, Aachen is only about 75 kilometers southwest of Düsseldorf. After grabbing our camera and travel books, we entered an Aachen address into the GPS system of our car, and arrived in this fabled city in a little less than an hour…totally hassle free.

Why travel to Aachen at all? What could be so intriguing as to lure Buddy and I to this place? Sure, Aachen has been known for years as a place to enjoy the warm thermal springs. Even the Romans were aware of this fact as they established the first baths in the city in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. Although the name of the city has evolved through the centuries from Aguisgrani, Aken, to even Aix-le-Chapelle, the city name has always had the concept of water as part of its name.

Well, if the tales of the magnificent Charlemagne are not enough to tempt history buffs to this site, then I am not sure what could. History tells us that Charlemagne was crowned the Holy Roman Emperor in 800 AD, and that he chose to establish Aachen as the capital of his empire, the Roman Empire. While the city did not retain that title for long, it was the place that Charlemagne continued to return to again and again, and eventually, where he was buried. Charlemagne’s palace must have been amazing, but alas, only the chapel remains today (see photo below). As if that was not enough history to make the site worth visiting, from the 10th through 14th centuries, all German kings were crowned in the palace chapel as well.



I won’t even try to tell you everything we saw and learned during our trip today, as I will do that over the next few days…in both word and photo. Check back, especially if you feel your knowledge of Charlemagne and this period of history is a bit lacking.

Bauhaus

An oasis in the desert! Oh, yea….one stop shopping for all those home improvement needs. Think Home Depot, right down to the orange and white store colors and recognizable white font lettering. Makes me wonder if this store is owned by the same company that owns Home Depot in the US. There was even a “copy-cat” version in Taiwan known as B&Q, with the same orange colors and white lettering. Whoever owns it, we are forever in your debt.

I know you wonder “How can someone get so excited about finding a hardware store?”. Well, you can take for granted the “I’ll just run up to Home Depot and pick that up” store runs, really any day of the week and well into the late evening hours. You see, we’ve had a little issue with hanging the draperies (Becky – where are you when we need you ?). When you can’t find that certain type screw, drill bit, or paint color, don’t know the city, and don’t speak too much of the language, having a conversation about hardware tools and supplies can take on an entirely new dimension. Suffice to say, we have hit pay dirt with the Bauhaus.

MeMaw

After a long battle with cancer, Buddy's grandmother, MeMaw, passed away on Monday, June 27th. Funeral services were held yesterday in the small west Texas town in which she spent so much of her life. Due to the degree of travel complexity and timing of the funeral service, Buddy and I were unable to attend, but we were, of course, in attendance in spirit.

What can I tell you about this delightful woman who I had the pleasure of knowing for over 22 years? She was married twice, the first being to PaPaw, with whom she celebrated over 50 years of marriage until his death in 1989. MeMaw and her second husband, Wayne, were married for almost 10 years, and were gentle companions for one another. She was a devoted homemaker, loving mother, and a capable help-mate as a rancher and farmer's wife. MeMaw is survived by her daughter, Delores (Buddy's mother), son, step-daughter and their spouses, 6 grandchildren (and their spouses and partners) and 12 great grandchildren.

All of these are important contributions and achievements to be sure, but do not really do justice to the person that I remember her to be. Her devotion to family was amazing, whether that devotion was to help a family member in crisis or simply to be interested in the activities, jobs, and hobbies of her clan. While fiercely proud of her children and grandchildren, she recognized the unique traits of each and never attempted to compare them. Each was a special gift from God and treated as such by her. She had a great sense of humor, laughed well and often, and could find the humor in many situations. And while she found great joy in the “growing” of her garden, whether it be vegetables, flowers, or fruit trees that she was never without, it was the "feeding, watering, and nurturing" of her family that gave her the most satisfaction.

While many special memories of MeMaw will always be with us, my favorite recollections will be the ones of her sitting on the porch of the Aquarena Springs hotel during the annual family reunions and visiting with her many brothers and sisters. They would all congregate on the veranda under the shade of large trees in the late afternoon of the Texas summer heat to visit with one another, catch up on the lives of each other and their families, and reminiscence about earlier days.

Perhaps her children and grandchildren will have other memories, and certainly an abundance of stories to share. The loss of her presence will be missed by all who knew and loved her, whether family or friend. And while she was not my mother or grandmother, nor did we share any blood bond other than my marrying her grandson, her presence will be missed by me as well…Simply stated, she was my friend.