Weiss Spargel

Germans are crazy about it. They line up for fresh spargel at the local stands like they are waiting in line for concert tickets. They commonly refer to this time of year as “spargel season”. Local German towns even have spargel-fests. Its reputation has grown to almost mythic proportions. What is it, you ask?

Simply stated….white asparagus.

Personally, I did know such a thing existed. Not being much of a Julia Childs in the kitchen, I did feel I knew my fruits and vegetables quite well. Five years in Asia introduced me to quite a few new varieties of food, so I thought I had seen it all. Guess not.

Germans begin making the pilgrimage from the city into the countryside each spring to buy this white asparagus from the farmers fresh...literally, right out the field. Farmers have even been known to run out of spargel by 7:30 AM. In addition, visit the local villages and dine on local dishes serving us the stuff. For many villages, the highlight of the season is the annual "Spargelfest," complete only with a large tent, where guests enjoy various different asparagus dishes, lots of beer, and a big formal evening dance to crown the "Spargel Königin," the beautiful Queen of Asparagus for the village (that can certainly rival Bertram’s Oatmeal Festival).

Traditionally, spargel is harvested from Easter until St. Johannis Day, June 24. To harvest after this date kills the roots, as the plant cannot leaf out properly to make it through the heat of summer and to gain the strength for the next season. The old farmers say, "When the cherries get red, leave the asparagus in its bed". A farmer who maintains his field of asparagus can harvest for about ten to twelve years; the first three years of the planting's life, there can be no harvesting.

White asparagus will have the same qualities as green asparagus, including purple highlights, except that the color will be white instead of green. Perhaps it is a little larger, but not much. Because the harvesting process is quite intensive (much of the harvesting is done by hand, involving digging up the asparagus, and hand peeling the outer layers), spargel can be quite expensive. Unlike the usual green variety, the spears of white asparagus are planted in sandy soil trenches and covered with moist earth to shield them from the light until the day they are picked, and halting the production of chlorophyll. More than you wanted to know? No worries, this could be entertaining dinner party banter at your next soiree….

OK, the most important part, “How is it eaten”? Lots of ways, but atop fresh salads, or steamed and covered with hollandaise or mayonnaise seem to be the favorites.

As I did a little online search for more information, I noticed that the Bavarian Grill in Plano, Texas (yes, Plano, Texas!) has a great little story on the history of the white asparagus, along with pictures. My first reaction was: there is enough information to even warrant “a story” on white asparagus? Apparently, there is; however, for those asparagus connoisseurs, I will let you check out the URL below should you want more details.

http://www.bavariangrill.com/menus_asparagus_story.html

As yesterday was the “last” official day of the spargel growing season, I should run, not walk to my local market if I am going to experience any of this delicacy this year.